Jon &
I
visited
Santa Fe
for the
Las
Posada
on
December
12,
2010.
While
there we
visited
the
Santa
Domingo
Pueblo.
I wanted
to
experience
the
feeling
of where
Nestoria
and
Daniel
Coriz
create
their
beautiful
jewelry.
After
comparing
the
pueblo
to
today’s
non-pueblo
neighborhoods,
it only
adds to
the
amazing
wonders
of how
they
create
such
perfect
jewelry.
Much
must
still be
drilled
and
carved
with
small
tools by
the
steady-controlled
hands of
these
talented
artisans.
As
verifiable
on the
Collector’s
Guide
web
site,
"The
literal
meaning
of
heishi
is
"shell"
and
specifically
refers
to
pieces
of shell
which
have
been
drilled
and
ground
into
beads
and then
strung
into
necklaces.
More and
more
frequently,
however,
heishi
has come
to refer
to
hand-made
tiny
beads
made of
any
natural
material.
The
origin
of
heishi
is
fascinating
and is
inescapably
linked
to the
ancient
history
of the
people
most
proficient
in its
making,
the
Santo
Domingo
and San
Felipe
Pueblo
Indians.
It is
safe to
say this
is the
oldest
form of
jewelry
in New
Mexico
and
perhaps
in North
America,
pre-dating
the
introduction
of
metals.
Centuries
ago, the
shells
used by
the
Pueblo
Indians
to make
beads
were
obtained
in trade
from the
Gulf of
California."
Keep
in mind,
though,
not all
jewelers
are
reputable
as I
found
when
reading
freelance
writer
Sher
Matsen’s
article
on
turquoise.
She
emphasized
the need
when
purchasing
to be
wary.
According
to her,
there is
much
imitation,
however,
the
imitation
techniques
may be
good. If
authenticity
is
important,
you will
need to
purchase
it
through
a
gallery
where
certification
and
information
regarding
the
artisan
is
provided.
This
will not
be a
problem
when
buying
from the
Coriz
family,
for they
are
famous
for
their
potters
and
silversmiths
and for
using
the best
quality
of
natural
stones
like
heishi,
turquoise,
lapis,
jet,
mother
of pearl
and
spiny
oyster
and
melon
shell.
Daniel
Coriz is
not only
a fine
silversmith,
but he
is also
a master
of the
inlay
jewelry
technique.
The
cross
that I
bought
illustrates
this
with
turquoise,
jet,
orange &
green
spiny
oyster
and
mother
of pearl
stones
perfectly
incased
in
sterling
silver.
It is a
beautiful
complimentary
piece,
which
matches
the
orange &
green
spiny
oyster
heishi
and
turquoise
necklace.
The
inlaying
of the
stones
is and
has been
used by
the
Native-American
jewelers
for
centuries.
It is a
decorative
technique
of
inserting
pieces
of
contrasting,
often
colored
materials
into
depressions
in a
base
object
to form
patterns
or
pictures
that
normally
are
flush
with the
matrix.
Much of
the
stone
shaping
had to
be done
by hand
due to
the
unavailability
of the
proper
tools.
To some
degree,
this may
still be
the case
due to
the
fragile
stones,
especially
turquoise.
The
turquoise
stone is
an
opaque,
blue-to-green
mineral
that is
a
hydrous
phospate
of
copper
and
aluminum.
It is
one of
the most
popular
stones
and can
be found
in many
parts of
the
world
and
North
American
in the
dry
areas of
Arizona
and New
Mexico.
When
working
with
turquoise
60-70
percent
can be
lost due
to the
softness
of the
stone.
Much of
the
turquoise
from
China is
wax
impregnated
to
harden
lesser
quality
stones.
This is
why it
may be
beneficial
to deal
with a
reputable
artisan
if
quality
is an
issue.
The
lapis
lazuli
stone is
a
relatively
rare
semi
precious
stone
that has
been
prized
since
antiquity
for its
intense
blue
color.
Lapis
lazuli
has been
mined
from
mines in
the
Badakhshan
Province
of
Afghanistan
for over
6,000
years
and
there
are
sources
that are
found in
the
eastern
region
of
Siberia.
The
necklace
that I
purchased
does not
contain
the
lapis
stone,
but
warrants
mentioning.
You will
understand
if you
take the
time to
check
the
Authentic,
New,
Vintage
and Dead
Pawn
Native
American
Indian
Jewelry
at the
Tumbleweeds
Jewelry
web site
and look
for
Daniel’s
designs
with
this
stone.
The
jet,
otherwise
known as
the
French
word
jaiet,
is a
geological
material
and is
considered
to be a
minor
gemstone.
It is
not
considered
a true
mineral,
but
rather a
mineraloid
as it
has an
organic
origin,
being
derived
from
decaying
wood
under
extreme
pressure.
It
occurs
in
either
black or
dark
brown
and may
contain
pyrite
inclusions,
which
are of
brassy
color
and
metallic
lustre.
The
adjective
jet-black
is
better
known
perhaps
than the
substance
from
which
the
descriptive
phrase
derives.
One
of the
earliest
of
mankind's
ornaments,
jet
beads
have
been
unearthed
from
burial
sites
dating
to the
Bronze
Age. The
extension
of the
Roman
Empire
into the
British
Isles
resulted
in this
black
gem's
use in
the
jewelry
and art
objects
of rich
Romans.
The
finest
jet
comes
from
England,
and it
is also
found in
the
United
States,
Poland,
France,
Germany,
Spain,
India
and
Russia.
From
the 1870
the use
of the
gem was
in a
consistent
decline
in its
popularity.
Some
speculate
that the
gem's
association
with
mourning
was
responsible.
Recently
the
stone
has made
a
recovery.
Once
again,
it is
being
used by
many of
the
Native
American
artisans
in New
Mexico.
This jet
stone
was used
in the
design
of my
cross,
and
earrings
creating
a
striking
accent
against
the
other
vibrant
colors.
I
recently
found
out the
way to
distinguish
jet from
black
marble,
is by
the
weight.
If the
jewelry
piece is
very
heavy
most
likely
it is
made
with
black
marble
because
jet is a
much
lighter
stone
due to
it being
a
mineraloid.
The
mother
of pearl
is the
common
name for
iridescent
nacre, a
blend of
minerals
that are
secreted
by
oysters
and
other
mollusks
and
deposited
inside
their
shells,
coating
and
protecting
their
bodies
from
parasites
and
foreign
objects.
A pearl
grows
when
mother
of pearl
surrounds
and
builds
layers
around
an
object
that's
inserted
in the
shell by
nature
or
humans.
Daniel
not only
placed
the
mother
of pearl
within
the
design
of my
cross
and
earrings,
he also
cleverly
placed
it on
the back
of the
earrings.
That was
not only
convenient
for the
purchaser
(who
does not
like
polishing
the
silver),
but also
a
beautiful
accent.
The
spiny-oyster
bead is
a
process
of
cutting
up the
spiny
oyster
shells
into
bead-sized
pieces
and
drilling
holes
through
the
pieces.
Spiny
heishi
oyster
beads
come in
all
sizes,
shapes
and in 3
main
colors,
orange,
olive
and
purple.
The
stones
are
harvested
from the
ocean
floor
and are
used by
many
Native
American
artisans
like the
Coriz
family.
Daniel’s
ability
to
perfectly
match
the
heishi
stones
with my
beautifully
crafted
cross
just
seemed
amazing
to me!
The
melon
shell
comes
from
several
melon-shaped
mollusks
of the
genus "melo".
Also
called
Bailer
shell or
Bailer
melon
shell.
Melon
shell
comes in
various
pastel
shades
of cream
to light
brown.
Commonly
found on
the
beaches
and also
are
often by
product
of the
seafood
in
industry
because
the
snails
are
harvested
for
meat. I
don’t
believe
my
necklace
&
earrings
were
designed
with
this
stone in
mind,
but I
wanted
to
include
this in
the
article
because
the
Daniel
Coriz’s
family
are know
to use
this
stone in
their
designs.
I
realize
that
this
information
only
touches
on a
very
small
part of
the
Native
American
Santo
Domingo
Pueblo
artisans
and
their
technique.
However,
for me
it has
been an
exciting
discovery.
I now
know
more
about
the
artist
that
created
my
necklace,
earrings
and
cross,
along
with a
minor
knowledge
of the
inlaying
technique
and the
colorful
heishi
stones.
I look
forward
to a
future
of many
discoveries
of the
Native
American
jewelry
making
from New
Mexico
"The
Land of
Enchantment."