The
1,100-acre
Victory
Ranch, home
to 300
alpacas, is
one stop on
New Mexico’s
recently
blazed rural
Fiber Arts
Trails.
Envisioned
in 2005 at a
gathering of
the state’s
cultural
tourism
advocates,
the circuit
features
more than
200 artisans
at 71
destinations.
From
downtown
Santa Fe, I
had driven
east to Las
Vegas, a
small
railroad
town, then
veered north
on a country
road that
took me into
the southern
Rockies.
Arriving at
the
spectacular
expanse that
is Victory
Ranch, I
felt as
though I had
reached
Patagonia,
an illusion
enhanced by
the grazing
herd of
alpacas.
Alpacas,
members of
the camel
family and
native to
the Andes,
do well in
the
7,000-foot-plus
elevation of
northern New
Mexico with
their
enlarged
hearts and
lungs.
“Their
fiber can be
finer than
cashmere,’’
said Darcy
Weisner,
ranch
manager.
“It’s very
lightweight
as it is a
hollow hair,
which gives
it unique
insulating
qualities.
We analyze
every
alpaca’s
fiber every
year when we
shear. This
helps us
with our
breeding
program as
well as with
deciding
whose fiber
should be
sent to a
mill and
whose will
be handspun
or sold as
raw fiber in
our store.’’
At the
Mora Valley
Spinning
Mill, a mile
down the
road,
director
Carla Gomez
walked me
through the
process of
transforming
hefty bags
of tangled
fur into
skeins of
vibrantly-colored,
silky wool.
A staff of
eight
operates the
machines
that produce
about 50
pounds of
wool a day.
Gomez hopes
to double
that by
year’s end.
Early
Spanish
settlers
introduced
sheep to
this region
in the late
16th
century.
Gomez sees
the mill as
both an
economic
engine and
preserver of
“heritage’’
breeds.
“For a
small
farmer, the
animals that
are raised
are a part
of the
family,’’
she said.
“When an
animal is
raised for
its wool,
fiber is a
harvested
crop, just
like picking
a peach that
is ripe and
sweet off a
tree.’’
Leaving
the mill, I
drove
through the
Sangre de
Cristo
Mountains,
then along
the Kit
Carson
National
Forest to
the tiny
town of
Youngsville,
about 100
miles west
of Mora.
Here, from
its perch at
6,800 feet,
the property
of fiber
artist Katy
Blanchard
has a
stunning
360-degree
view: Ghost
Ranch, where
Georgia
O’Keeffe
painted for
50 years, is
to the
northeast;
the artist’s
beloved
Cerro
Pedernal
mountain to
the east;
lovely mesas
to the west;
and the
Santa Fe
National
Forest to
the south.
In 1983,
when
Blanchard
was trying
to create a
shade she
refers to as
Navajo red,
she
discovered
what she
called “the
wonderful
world of
natural
colors.’’
She now has
about
one-eighth
of an acre
devoted to
natural
dyes,
growing
plants for
herself and
for sale to
other fiber
artists.
“I
finally
achieved the
red I wanted
using
cochineal,
which is a
bug that
grows on
cactus,’’
said
Blanchard,
the director
of New
Mexico Fiber
Artisans, a
statewide
coalition of
artists,
growers,
businesses,
and groups
committed to
developing
fiber and
fiber art as
a primary
income
source.
Next I
headed to
Española, a
sprawling
suburb of
Santa Fe. At
the Española
Valley Fiber
Arts
Center’s
adobe
storefront,
merchandise
included
pictorial
and abstract
tapestries,
rag rugs,
jerga
blankets,
shawls,
felted
scarves,
willow
baskets,
colcha
embroidery,
quilts, and
handmade
paper.
Diane
Bowman, the
director,
said the
goods are
made by the
membership.
The center
was founded
in 1995 by a
small group
of weavers
who knew
area
families had
inherited
looms but
had little
knowledge of
the heritage
and
techniques
of northern
New Mexico
textiles
practiced by
their
grandparents.
With donated
looms and
space in a
local
church, they
began to
teach
weaving.
Today, the
nonprofit
organization
has a staff
of five.
“Weaving
offers a way
to earn
income for
the elderly,
women with
young
children,
the many
people who
are
underemployed
here or live
in isolated
areas where
work is not
available,’’
Bowman said.
“Artists
need markets
for their
work beyond
once-a-year
studio
tours.’’
On
another day,
I visited
Centinela
Traditional
Arts in
Chimayó,
about 45
minutes
north of
Santa Fe.
This is the
studio of
Irvin and
Lisa
Trujillo,
weavers
whose work
is in the
Smithsonian.
I had
admired
several of
Irvin’s
pieces
featured at
the Museum
of
International
Folk Art, in
Santa Fe, as
part of its
exhibit of
New Mexico
artists
designated
as
“masters’’
by the
National
Endowment
for the
Arts.
Irvin is
a
seventh-generation
weaver. He
has worked
with a range
of
historical
blanket
styles: Río
Grande from
the Spanish
Colonial
period;
Saltillo
from the
Mexican
period;
Vallero from
the American
Colonial
period; and
Chimayó from
the
Industrial
Revolution
period. In
time, Irvin
became known
for both his
mastery of
traditional
styles and
his spirit
of
innovation.
“Weaving
is my life
and my
pieces
reflect my
observations
and
experience
of my
culture and
surroundings,’’
he said.
Touring the
Fiber Arts
Trails, I
experienced
the rich
tapestry of
the area’s
textile
heritage
from “sheep
to shawl,’’
discovering
artistry and
cottage
industry
hard at
work.